Rough Groove

Sagada: A brief trip

Better late than never.

About a month ago, I was at Sagada with some special friends for a few days off. Its two years since I’ve first come to this place and this time, I was able to visit more spots and do more activities than before. Whereas the weather back then was not as great with days usually overcast and just boring, this time, it was hot and sunny during the day and chilly in the evening. There is now an internet and computer café. P60 per hour but at that time, there was satellite transmission problems that I was not able to use it. Globe has already its own cellsite but mobile and temporary (located near the cemetery, but only serves around Sagada town proper because of its location and antenna tower height) to compete with Smart (already present since a few years back, on top of a hill with good signal and location with service reaching other villages and municipalities, like Besao, other than Sagada).

At the Baguio bus terminal for buses bound for Sagada and Besao.

We rode the 0930H bus bound for Besao via Sagada (last bus is 1300H) and a couple of minutes later was meandering the back of the Cordilleras via the Halsema Highway. Whereas the scenery was good, better still if you ride the 0630H bus and enjoy mist covered mountains and nippy air sans the squid like smell of chicken dung (used as fertilizer for the various vegetable farms that is a common sight) that just ruins your ride at various points of the highway. One major improvement since I traveled through this highway was that from Baguio to Bauko, only small portions were left uncemented whereas from Bauko to Sagada its still dusty and bumpy.

The bell at St. Mary the Virgin Episcopal church in Sagada

We stayed at Ganduyan Inn (cell number: +639206378274) since St. Joseph Inn was fully booked that time. But if you can’t bear the morning noise, especially at market day, Saturday, and buses starting early morning (these are just outside the inn), its advisable to find another place (same situation at Sagada Pension and Alfredo’s Inn and Restaurant that is within the perimeters of the main town center).

A common site in Cordillera not only in Sagada.

One thing that I’ve observed in Sagada, and in other places along Halsema Highway and Banaue is that houses have currogated sheets for walls. It’s a sight and a break from the usual. Our guide to Bomod-ok Falls told us that these walls are double layered: iron sheet in the outside, wooden planks in the inside.

Souviner shop at Sagada

As Sagada is a tourist’s haven, expect to see various souviner shops selling almost the same things that you can find in Baguio and Banaue. From native weaves to the ubiquitous bul-ol . But there are Sagada specific t-shirts and if you check the various shops, you can find postcards, bottles of rice wines, peach and strawberry jams (yes, they have peach as well as orange, apple and persimmon trees locally grown, October availability for the latter), mountain honey that are produced here. If you want better price, check RJ Souvenirs. Its cheaper than the one beside Ganduyan Inn. I bought a neck scarf for P100 at the latter but a better alternative was available at RJ for just P75. They also have various audio CDs and cassettes on local songs. For a copy of Masferre: A Tribute to the Cordilleras highlighting the works of Eduardo Masferre, you can get as well as view photos at the Masferre Café and Restaurant.

Saturday is market day

Come Saturday morning and the central square at the town proper starts to be busy with people selling wares from the mountains and other places in the Cordilleras. There are fresh fish from as far as Isabela province, a Boholano woman who now resides near Sagada selling native rice cakes and sweets, vegetables and fruits from other villages as well as plastic ware and toys, slippers and shoes, wag-wag (used clothing) and what have you.

Sagada at night.

2100H and Sagada starts to close its shops. People go back to their homes and the few tourists who are still lingering in the cafes will leave and go back to their inns.

Baguio, 4 - Binatog

While ambling around Burnham Park to take pictures, I can’t help but notice some streetfood vendors selling something that I have’t seen in other places before. At first, I thought that these were some local elbow macaroni food concoction, as it was rounded, and white with some bits of meat placed on a big steamer and covered with plastic.

Binatog , as what it is called, is made from white corn kernels that is cooked or steamed until it becomes plump and puffed up, and mixed with grated coconut, sugar and milk. Costing only ten pesos per cup, one can usually find it around streets, especially within Session Road and parks within the city sold on top of carts side by side with other streetfood fare like squid and fish balls, tempura, peanuts, balut etc.

I tried one and its delicious.

Baguio, 3

Baguio City. For an amateur photographer who likes to shoot people and in the streets, this city is a good place for it. Go to Session Road and its alleys and nearby streets, be it during the day or night, the cathedral grounds on a busy Sunday morning, the market, the local SM City mall and most notably, Burnham Park on a weekend and you’ll have fun taking pictures!

Baguio, 2

We’ve quarreled again. While at first I said that I prefer to talk face to face to talk things over when I come home by the end of the week, instead, can’t wait. I asked again for space to cool off my head.

I’m on my second day here in Baguio and I’ve been searching my heart and probed the depth of my soul. Most of my time here have been spent reflecting, sorting things out. I’m still in a bind. I don’t really know what to do. I posted a few days ago that a part of me wanted to let go while a part of me wants to stay. Should I go on with this relationship? Or is it high time to give it up.

I received a text last night wishing me to be happy wherever I am now. I called up. We talked. Cried. I invited to have dinner by the 23rd but not sure we’ll meet. Afraid that I would finally propose to end the relationship.

I’ve known this person for sometime now. By the 22nd, we would be on our 10th month but for the past few months, it has been a downward drive. I’ll be leaving this noon back to Makati and still, much time is needed to settle this.

Baguio

I went here in Baguio last Saturday at 0200H to think things over. And god, what a lovely place. While this is the third time that I’ve been here, this is the first time that I have stayed overnight. The first was just a passing over when I was coming from Laoag a few years ago. Really haven’t been here that time and when I reached San Fernando, La Union, I hopped on a bus and went to this city. I eventually went down to Manila that evening. The second time was when I was enroute to Sagada/Banaue about February two years ago. I arrived 0500H that early morning, had a hot and hearty breakfast then proceeded to Lizardo Trans for the 7 hour bus trip to Sagada via the picturesque Halsema Highway.

And now this. I haven’t felt so much at home and calm being here. The weather is good, cool tempreture, nice people and everythings just clean. I went malling in SM, had coffee at Le Figaro and Seattles Best, had a burger lunch at Brothers Burger, and just this morning, attended the Misa de Gallo at the Pink Sisters Adoration Chapel. Not that I was feeling religious but I was told that the mass there is conducted in Gregorian. But alas, no chants were done. After that, had a sumptuous buffet breakfast at The Manor in Camp John Hay. I also went doing photography around Burnham Park, the market, cathedral and Session Road.

Along the sidewalk, you can find strawberries (fruit as well as jam) sold including ube jam, various fruits, the famous Baguio brooms, man-in-the-barrel, penis keychains, etc.

Just beautiful place!!!

I sense that I will be coming back to this city from time to time to unwind, clear my heartaches and cool my head off in the future.