Rough Groove

Another trip in Binondo

Well, I was on another errand in Sta. Cruz and just couldn’t resist to drop by Ongpin in Binondo. At first, I was just planned to have a snack of bola-bola siopao in one snack house near the Binondo church (the one I frequent). The steamed bun was just so so with not even a piece of salted egg and/or sliver of sausage but I bet, their special siopao would be much much better and larger (I think). This coupled with avocado shake and I was full.

On the way back, I can’t just help but imagine the taste of the mixed nuts with one salted egg yolk mooncake that I had two days ago and was definitely craving to get one that when I passed by the Salazar bakery, I saw and got one. Off to Eng Bee Tin and I got their squid adobo and special puto cheese (hmmm, after having tasted it, I say I prefer those that I usually get in Cebu, moist and really cheesy but the sliver of salted egg on top somewhat made up for the shortcoming).

From their, on my way back to the Carriedo LRT station, I passed by a couple of fruit stands and bought guavas as well as this strange fruit they call lampara that almost takes like mansanitas but a little bit less sweeter. There were also pears, peaches, lansones from Bangkok, different kinds of persimons and plums but I stayed off from these considering the price. Just before I got to the station, I happened to chance upon a stall selling kikiam (meat and vegetable mixture wrapped in beancurd) and got one package.

This place is really very tempting for various food items. I just hope that when I get back there probably tomorrow, I can reign in my curiosity.

Pomegranates in Ongpin

Just as I was on my way back to the Carriedo LRT station, I was walking along Ongpin St. in chinatown for some errands, that I passed by a couple of fruit stalls and what just captured my attention were a few boxes of pomegranates neatly packaged in plastic with chinese calligraphy and styrofoam pouches.

It has been decades since I’ve enjoyed this unique fruit that we locally call granada (translates to grenade in English). Maybe because of its shape and hundreds of tightly packed seeds covered in the most delicate and translucent pulp sometimes with a tinge of red or purple or maroon or just plain translucence arranged in sections covered with a thin gossamer sheath.

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Black Nazarene, 2006 - devotees

Just some of the devotees that I’ve encountered while walking along the narrow streets before the procession.

Darna/Narda
At first I was attracted at the small image of the Nazarene that this lady, together with other devotees were busily attending too. When I got closer to take pictures, she approached me with a smile, came near and whispered: “Alam mo, ako si Darna. Yung Narda sa una.” (”You know, I’m Darna. The Narda before”). I was suprised and really didn’t know if I should treat it as a joke and laugh but she seemed to be very serious. I just nodded and smiled and asked to take her picture which she gamely posed. By the way, Darna/Narda is the name of a fictional local heroine in the mold of Wonder Woman who, as the ordinary Narda, is transformed to the sexy and superhuman character that is Darna that flies and saves the world from evil.

I really don’t know what to make of her claim. Just too possibilities:
- she is indeed Narda/Darna in her younger years doing screen work for the movies. And,
- she may be dillusional, a given in this festivity where sects and cults with messianic complexes abound

Victor Serrano
While sitting on the ledge, I chatted up with Vic as he was waiting for the image to pass. He has been joining in the festivities for the past 30 years, starting when he was still 33 years old and hasn’t missed a single procession (there are two each year: 9 January and Good Friday). I asked him if he has a reason for joining, probably a promise, a penitence or a thanx for having a loved one cured or something. He just answered that he does this for the good of mankind.

Those 30 years of going barefoot and joining the procession are attested on his broken toe nails. A family man from Mandaluyong, he accompanied around 50 other devotees in his area. When I asked if there are other family members with him, he answered that he does not intend to bring a kin or a son since he fears that they may not be upto the demands of participating in such a risky event.

Devotees come from different backgrounds, from different walks of life from the downtrodden, poor to the wealthy with different reasons ranging from a promise to the pure thrill of just experiencing it. But seeing their faces light up after the act of endangering their lives in the name of God and, for others, the the experience, makes me wonder if I will have the guts to do it.

Related posts:

Quiapo - Black Nazarene Feast
Quiapo, 2 - Insight
Quiapo, 3 - The Devotion
Quiapo, 4 - The Vendors
Quiapo, 5 - The Religious Sects
Quiapo, 6 - The Male Devotees
Quiapo, 7 - The Media
Quiapo, 8 - Other Images
Quiapo, 9 - Two Politicians in Contrast
Quiapo, 10 - Ma Mon Luk
Black Nazarene, 2006

Black Nazarene, 2006

9 January and I filed a leave from work to be in Quiapo for the Black Nazarene festivities to take photos. Once again, devotees as well as the curious flocked to this part of Manila whose church houses the much revered and venerated image of the Christ (a 400 year old image from Mexico that got burned, thus its called the Black Nazarene) to honor a panata (promise) or marvel at the display of (blind?) faith, daringness and spectacle that marks this annual feast.

The barefoot male (and a very few female) devotees await 1400H when the closed gates of the church are flung open as the thick ropes rapidly are drawn from the portal dragging the familiar carroza holding the sacred image accompanied by the explosion of firecrackers, shouts of Viva! Viva! Viva! and emphatic cry of devotion as pilgrims and devotees raise their hands and white kerchief.

Preceeding the carroza are two thick ropes that the male devotess tug. Die hard believers would risk life and limb just to touch or hold the rope, climb on the carroza to touch the image while others are content watching, following or having their kerchiefs and towels dabbed at the image’s face.

I was fortunate that I stayed at the elevated road leading to the bridge going to Manila City Hall that gave me a good vantage point for the procession as it happened. As the spectacle above unfolded before my eyes, I can’t help but feel the surge of excitement as well as thrill of the frenzy that was happening. Male and female devotees were pushing and pulling, there were shouts and cries of pain as well as ecstasy as I was also frantically taking shots upon shots! The whole atmosphere was filled electric!

Of course, the procession is not complete without the casualties. One was reported dead on arrival at the hospital as he was probably crushed in the seeming melee. More than 20 have been injured and as for these two men above, they were lucky to just suffer a cut or a bruise.

While waiting for the image to come out of the church, this devotee took his time to take a brief rest before the impending push and pull of the crowds as they jostle against each other starts. A calm before the storm!

Fervent devotees handing over their towels and kerchief for this men on top gets them to wipe the face of the image. They consider it sacred and the kerchiefs, after dabbing, is transformed into a sacred salve, a holy cloth that can cure sickness and pain of the body and soul.

Related posts:

Quiapo - Black Nazarene Feast
Quiapo, 2 - Insight
Quiapo, 3 - The Devotion
Quiapo, 4 - The Vendors
Quiapo, 5 - The Religious Sects
Quiapo, 6 - The Male Devotees
Quiapo, 7 - The Media
Quiapo, 8 - Other Images
Quiapo, 9 - Two Politicians in Contrast
Quiapo, 10 - Ma Mon Luk
Black Nazarene, 2006 - devotees

Manila: San Sebastian Basilica Minore

The Gothic Basilica of San Sebastian in Manila. Its twin spires rise to 52 meters and is considered as the only steel church in Asia, second in the world (left). The main altar where the said to be miraculous statue of the Our Lady of Mount Carmel (this is also the national shrine for this icon), a gift to the Philippines in 1618 (right).

Beautiful French made stained glass windows that adorn the basilica depicting Jesus’ life.

The marker reads:

Historical Research and Markers Committee

San Sebastian Church

Designed by Genaro Palacios, the structural metal of which this church is uniquely built was manufactured in Belguim and erected here by Belgian engineers. The church was solemnly blessed August 16, 1891. Earlier churches built on this site by Recollect friars since 1611 were destroyed by earthquake in 1859, 1863 and 1880.

1934