Rough Groove

Series 23: Simbahan

Simbahan. I’ve always been fascinated with the catholic churches of the country. Legacies to its colonial past standing proud despite the ravages of time and the so called modernizations inflicted by man and unappreciating priests and clergy. Except for the Antipolo Church (and perhaps that of Puerto Princesa in Palawan and also that of Talaga, Argao which is a mid 20th century edifice) which is a modern structure erected in place of the original, these churches, from as far as Ilocos to Quezon, Bicol and Cebu are testament to the rich cultural and architectural heritage that can be proudly claimed as truly and uniquely Filipino.

This series of Philippine churches at binary silver will be the start of my postings of these grand structures as I continue to document the remaining colonial churches nationwide that are worth saving.

Laguna churches trip

I’ve always wanted to visit the famed old churches of Laguna but never made it due to work or other reasons even if its just a few hours from my place. But last Friday, a holiday, feeling itchy for a photoshoot, I woke up early at around 0415H, took a shower, prepared my things, ate breakfast and went immediately to the bus terminal in LRT-Taft along Buendia. Took a bus bound for Lucena and embarked at San Pablo City in Laguna to start a four churches trip.

San Pablo City. Haven’t been back to the city’s center in years. The last time I was in this place was when I was still in college. Lately, I just pass the highway at the periphery when traveling to Quezon. Nothing much have changed except for the obiquitous Jollibee fastfood outlets.

Nagcarlan. I’ve been reading about the old catacombs, the only one in the country, that can be found in this municipality. While I’ve passed this place before, I have not explored and seen close the church and the cemetery. Well, both are impressive!

Liliw. I was supposed to go to Majayjay after Nagcarlan but since the jeepneys I’ve rode in going to Nagcarlan also go to this municipality, I instead went there to look at the church. While it has been remodeled, its charm and uniqueness is still intact.

Magdalena. From Liliw, I would have proceeded already to Sta. Cruz to catch a bus for Makati but coming from the cemetery, I saw a sign for Magdalena. Why not? Off I went and visited the church.

Doing a shoot in the morning and at this month, is not too good as the churches I’ve visited were facing west in the direction of Laguna Lake. This coupled with overcast skies. I really have to reschedule a trip and this time, in the afternoon to have good lighting and should be with clear skies.

Nagcarlan, better known by Filipino televiewers as the church where a local TV station’s fantasy miniseries, Ang Kampanerang Kuba (literally, the lady hunchback bell ringer - a take on the character Quasimodo with a twist - a very big twist) was filmed.

I was quiet disappointed to see that a canopy was obstructing the facade of the church which was used to shelter people probably from the rain during the misa de gallo. Another trip should be scheduled here to better get a good picture of the church.

Outside the church grounds, I was just amazed at the number of shops lining the streets with almost all of them selling shoes, slippers and sandals. These might be there main product but the competition is just too much!

Magdalena church is equally impressive but I was not able to enter as it was locked during that time.

As for San Pablo Church, it was the only religious structure out of the four that I’ve visited to have a media naranja (literally, half orange in Spanish), a dome above the alter. The inside has already been remodelled and the facade has been painted. The sides still show the original brickwork though.

*I’ll be covering each church in more detail once I’ve returned and took more photos.

South Cebu trip

For two days (3 and 4 November) I woke up earlier than usual (in fact, as early as 0300H) for my travel to the south of Cebu to visit the old Spanish era churches that abound there. Frankly, every time I come home, I’ve always thought of going to Boljoon and document the church there but due to distance (and sometimes laziness), I’ve been putting it off. With much inspiration also from reading two books on Spanish colonial art, churches and fortresses: Fortress of Empire as well as Simbahan (will be blogged soon), a simple church hopping experience has been extended to include documenting ancient cemeteries with their colonial chapels and perimeter walls still intact, old stone watchtowers that line the southern coastline which in olden times, served as watchposts against pirates and raiding Muslims, to checking the year and foundry that made a church’s bells.

I admit it was quite tiring, what with the constant stop, walk and shoot, climbing to the top of belfries and even once, in the Oslob church, to the rooftop as I followed the caretaker; bringing out my heavy tripod and patiently photographing the paintings, retablos, railings, pulpits, choir lofts and even walls and floors of the different churches as well as the attached convents (just think of hot and humid surroundings). But the experience was both exhilarating: discovering some of the different peculiarities and at the same time similarities of the churches, convents and cemeteries and also saddening: hearing of antique statues being stolen like the San Juan statue in Oslob, or finding out that the altar and interiors have already been remodeled because it was burned years ago or due to the overzealousness of some lay ministers and parish priests, renovated/tore down/painted over centuries of religious structures/heritage.

For the two days, I’ve visited

1 Nov
- churches in Poblacion (including convent and camarin - a storage shed) and Nueva Caceres, Oslob including its cemetery as well as visited 5 fort/watchtower ruins
- the magnificent church in Boljoon, its convent and cemetery, a beautiful 1940 house with two stairways and a fort that has been transformed into a separate belfry
- a short time in Dalaguete church (unfortunately, my Epson P-2000 (40Gb of space) got filled up

2 Nov
- continuation of Dalaguete church, part of convent including its cemetery, cuartel ruins and fort, and
- the quaint, mid-20th century church of Talaga, Argao which I first saw when Farl posted it at his Flickr site

While I was able to go home at around 1800H last 3 Nov., 4th, I was earlier, around 1400H.

A snack of coke and puto, (sweet native delicacy wherein the sticky rice (tapol) is not ground) after I finished with Boljoon.

High school students walking from their school. The banderetas, buntings, at the background was put in preparation for the town’s fiesta next week.

A habal-habal (type of modified motorcycle usually prevalent in the hilly areas and provinces in the Visayas and Mindanao) which I took from Nueva Caceres to Poblacion, Oslob since buses and tricycles were very seldom.

At the livestock market just at the back of the Dalaguete church.

The bus conductor issuing a ticket to a passenger.

A road accident in Boljoon. Curiously, for the two days, I passed an accident each day.

Cavite: Maragondon Church

Ever since I saw this church at the Great Churches of the Philippines book, I have always been thinking of visiting this area, especially that its just in Cavite. And just last weekend I was able to visit it.

The Parish church of the Assumption of Mary situated in the small town of Maragondon, Cavite, a few hours from Makati, this quiant and imposing church just took my breath away: a simple whitewashed facade starkly contrasting with its five storey belfry that is made from river stones. The present structure was built in 1714 by the Jesuits. However, the addition of a cement canopy at the entrance sort of marred the already beautiful facade.

These heavy and richly carved entrance door, again, beautifully contrasts with the simple facade. Motifs of flowers, galleons and towers, said to be symbols of the Virgin Mary, decorates.

Left: One of the stations of the cross above old tombstones. Right: A niche for the image of the Sto. Nino.

The main retablo flanked by smaller retablos.

The church’s pulpit richly carved with symbols of the Virgin done in red, blue and gold. Below, is a carving of an inverted pineapple.

Great Churches of the Philippines - Galende & Javellana

A must have book for lovers of old Philippine churches, a legacy of its Spanish colonial past. This features 29 treasures around the country that showcases its unique architecture that is bound to delight and enlighten.