Not new but this durian infused coffee told me that I indeed am back in Davao City I needed a jolt, a caffeine kick that will really convince me that I’m indeed back in Davao City. Not just any kind of drink but one that is spiked and infused with, some say, a malodorant that is sure to assault the olfactory senses. I just have to give in and surrender. Blugre’s Durian Gatchpuccino espresso (P140) is hot and the atypical coffee aroma made interesting with hints of durian is something that I miss. Six years. Six long years since I’ve last tasted this and there was nothing else in my mind but to head to the nearest branch straight from the airport. Nothing seems to have changed. Bajada Ave. is still as is. Victoria Plaza is still dilapidated and on an early Sunday morning, all is unhurried. Except for a Robinsons mall construction and the occasional Kadayawan banners that were still left hanging, I just remembered Davao City as I left it. Kind of strange and kind of wonderful but I’m sure its only skin deep. I got my cup. A dollop of cream tops it with real bits of durian pulp and cinnamon. I smelled it and just savored the durian aroma then the coffee and the combination of both. I’m indeed back and I’m sure that it will be a sojourn down memory lane. This trip was made possible with my win in the Wandering Juan Travel Blog Awards, Culture and Heritage Category. Visit the official site.

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A Dane riding atop the jeepney from the Saddle at Batad enroute to Banaue. Travels to remote and off-the-beaten path destinations coming soon. I’ve checked my travel history and guess what!? I need to tick off Basilan off my list of provinces that I haven’t visited yet. And that includes eight others before I can complete all provinces visited in the Philippines. Will strike all off the list before the year ends. And the NINE:

Apayao (Luzon) Quirino (Luzon) Mindoro Occidental (Luzon) Antique (Visayas) Guimaras (Visayas) Biliran (Visayas) Siquijor (Visayas) Zamboanga Sibugay (Mindanao) Basilan (Mindanao)

These are all interesting places that are off the beaten path and I intend to visit seven on September and October.

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4x4 adventure at the Ilocos Norte Sand Dunes A trip around North Luzon is a sojourn that is best described as AWESOME! From the central plains of Pampanga, the rugged Cordilleras, the beaches of Ilocos and important heritage, culture and adventure spots that can be found in many areas proves to be a very interesting trip for whoever is brave enough to embark on this multi day journey. Last January 2010, I was invited by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau to join a media tour of travel writers and bloggers to experience North Luzon for seven days starting in Cagayan province all the way to Pampanga to sample the various local cuisines and experience the attractions offered by the various provinces along the route. Ilocandia is just too irresistible with its sand dunes and the exhilarating sports of sandboarding and 4×4 vehicle adventure. Other than that, there are also places worth a visit that is far from the maddening crowds like Paoay Lake and Maira-ira Cove. Wanting a wet adrenaline rush? La Union’s surf camps are a must. Surf celebrity Luke Landrigan will be there to give tips on form and execution and the place is good for beginners too. Baguio City still has it charms but the pull is outside its environs, at the nearby municipality of Bokod in Benguet. Go karting, which i tried for the first time and it was fun, or just admire the beautiful monstrosity that is Ambuklao Dam. This area has exciting adventure potentials and possibilities. Pangasinan also teems with stunning islands, over a hundred of them scattered off the coast of Alaminos with interesting wildlife and formations and cave systems. If you wan’t to explore each one, give it a few days. Heritage and culture? North Luzon has ancient churches rich in history. There are colonial architectural gems that would just make any Pinoys proud while gazing at Paoay Church or the neoclassic Pangasinan Capitol. Craving for something delicious? There are lot and lots of food specialties and experience that it has to offer of which, two stood out for this trip: the timeless and always satiating Batac emapanada that is bound to make the visitor not just eat one, but two or more. And of course, a bit of a curiousity, binungey, that sticky rice dish that is cooked inside bamboo. If you want to dine amidst stunning montane sceneries, then Bokod should be it. Go to the bowels of the earth and explore the caverns of Callao Cave. If you’re done, you can contemplate or reminisce on the riverine landscape while cruising the Pinacanauan River in Cagayan Province. I did it and be ready to be humbled. These are just some of the places that can be experienced and visited. But be ready for my LAKBAY NORTE REDUX soon.

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Yep, Langyaw.com won again! CLICK TO ENLARGE In Cebu Pacific’s latest contest, the Wandering Juan Travel Blog Awards, Langyaw.com wins in the Culture and Heritage category earning a two month (September and October) free pass in the budget airline within their domestic destinations plus a 3 days/2 nights stay for two at Marco Polo Hotel in Cebu. The awards had three categories that also included adventure/sports and leisure with best travel blog photography and best green travel blog. In the category that I won, I submitted my piece on my home province’s watchtowers: Cebu’s lonely sentinels of the sea which was part of my Cebu/Sugbo series. The travel blog winners, L to R: yours truly, Blanca, Marcos and Angel. Ada did not make it. Complementary hotel stay in Cebu
Am I happy? Of course! Despite the fiasco I experienced with the airline a few months ago, that was already history. And besides, with the free tickets, I need not worry of bungled online ticket booking payments, again. No headaches and no sleepless nights. The winners? Marcos of ambot-ah won for Leisure and Relaxation. Angel of Lakwatsero won the Adventure and Sports category. Ada, Adaphobic, the Best Travel Blog Photography while Blanca, Random Thoughts by Blanca, the Best Travel with a Cause blog. Congrats to you all!

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A very impressive cavern with stunning rock formations. The chapel inside adds to its charm Visitors dwarfed by the massiveness of the cave. CLICK TO ENLARGE I was but a tiny entity, a speck, in the caverns of Callao Cave in Peñablanca, Cagayan province, 24 kilometers from the capital Tuguegarao City, as I was dwarfed amidst the stunning stalactites and stalagmites as among unusual rock formations that made me oohed and aahed. Last January 2010, I was invited by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau to join a media tour of travel writers and bloggers to experience North Luzon for seven days starting in Cagayan province all the way to Pampanga to sample the various local cuisines and experience the attractions offered by the various provinces along the route. It was my second time to visit this place, the first, almost a decade ago that ended with a cruise along the Pinacanauan River. This geological formation, part of several in the area, has been developed affording better facilities to the tourists with knowledgeable guides. In this visit, I got to explore it closer and appreciated more its wonders. It was a steep climb over a flight of cement stairs, 184 steps to be exact, from the starting point to the mouth of the Callao Caves. Exhausting but kind of refreshing also as one goes under a canopy of vegetation that renders the path cooler. As the way is almost tunnel like with the trees and bushes, a breeze of air rushes. At one point, a panoramic view of the area unfolds. The cave’s mouth is just stunning. A white limestone cliff with vegetation growing on top or clinging vertically, precariously. Moss has also made its home while swiftlets flying overhead and suddenly homes in on a nest camouflaged on the rocky face or some crevices. Izah rappels down a short vertical face near the entrance Its a long way up through a series of cement steps, 184 to be exact. CLICK TO ENLARGE The seven chambered Callao Cave complex is just one of about 300 in the area. Much remains to be explored but there are still quite pristine ones like Sierra Cave, Odessa-Tumbali Cave System, to cite a few. These not so visited ones are quite interesting as visitors sometimes need to crawl, to be submerged and come out muddied and wet. Of course, entering is limited only to a few persons to lessen the impact but you are witness to cave building that has been ongoing for millenia. Callo Cave is making headlines right now, especially in the scientific community. Just lately, it has dislodged the Tabon Cave complex in Palawan as the site of the earliest Filipino ancestor by as much as 17,000 years. This 67,000 hominid (it’s still not sure what humanoid species) attests to the importance of this area in the peopling of the country. The familiar sight of a chapel near the entrance doesn’t enthrall anymore. It has been seen in countless photos and have been written in countless pages. It also symbolizes the encroachment of man into nature, imposing his will and sometimes destroying it. Beyond this, however, the natural appeal of the cave through its rock formations still amazes. Callao Cave is said to be dead. Graffiti has marred its walls, disturbed. But perhaps, it is also the best place to educate tourists about what we are doing to our natural environment. It is also a geological showcase that will introduce visitors to the subterranean world.

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A driver speeding down a curve at Bilar, Bohol's man made forest

Manila: La Loma, Chinese and North Cemeteries Cebu: round of the southern end, cockfight Bohol: tour of tourist traps and heritage sites La Union: San Fernando and Luna and many other places

For the past few weeks, it’s all been a blur. Shuttling to and fro, here and there either for work or for leisure but mostly on the former. Got an assignment for a magazine, around three articles in one issue. I got invited to a resort up north where for the next two days I pigged out and enjoyed the local sceneries and spots. My friend from Spain came and spent five days in Cebu and Bohol on the road visiting churches and old houses and being, most of the time, in a rented car, and just being a tourist in these rather familiar places. Yeah, a tourist going to the usual haunts and traps and staying in airconditioned hotels. Of filling out all my camera’s CF cards every other day trying to capture memories and sceneries for this blog and for posterities sake. It was my first time to visit Fort San Pedro in Cebu considering that I’m a true blue Cebuano. I actually enjoyed my Loboc River cruise. The visita iglesia and fortification visits in Bohol was so exciting that I consider it my highlight in that island. In La Union, I got to visit the Pindangan Ruins as well as the lone watchtower in Luna which I’ve wanted to do for a few months but didn’t get to until now. I was able to capture a very interesting beetle while touring the botanical garden in San Fernando. In Manila, I was actually wide eyed at the heritage treasures and architecture found in Hidalgo St. and the old cemeteries in this once glorious city that I’ve been thinking of doing some personal projects related to these treasures. Nevermind if me and my companion were accosted by overzealous security guards alarmed at us taking pictures of old tombs. Bummer. Tiring? Yes? Very. But it was all fun and eye opening and I won’t mind doing it again.

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Cruising the Pinacanauan River is one of those things I like doing in Cagayan province. It's rather short, however, but scenic. Locals fishing the river. CLICK TO ENLARGE The Pinacanauan River is no tongue twister and it is one of those bodies of water that I would not mind cruising often. Stunning vistas, ancient cave complexes, a natural dusk flight attraction as well as spectacular limestone walls make this route memorable. Last January 2010, I was invited by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau to join a media tour of travel writers and bloggers to experience North Luzon for seven days starting in Cagayan province all the way to Pampanga to sample the various local cuisines and experience the attractions offered by the various provinces along the route. It was more than six years ago that I first visited Peñablanca, Cagayan Province, lured by images of a simple chapel inside a massive cavern that is Callao Cave. I was then based in Mindanao as a telecoms engineer. The distance was never a problem since for me, the farther it is, the better. There’s always this internal desire of extending my reach of places, to conquer my own terras incognita. Unexplored lands, uncommon people, strange smells and tastes, unusual sceneries. Long motorized pumpboats load people, animals and produce as these are brought to the inner communities along the Pinacanauan River Out of curiosity, I just boarded one of the long pumpboats, longer and wider than the dragon boats found at the waters off the CCP grounds in Manila, waiting for passengers at the banks of this beautiful and clean river. when it finally started its motor, I was thrilled. Thrilled with the discoveries that I will then make and expecting to be surprised. That trip was quite memorable. There were shallow parts that the bangkero, or boat handler will have to go down and lead the boat to some deeper portions or adroitly evade rocky outcrops that can be devastating if it crashes on these. I fondly remember that when I sat down on the wooden planks, right infront of me was the behind of a horse. But luckily, I was not kicked. In other boats, pigs were loaded too but people aren’t complaining. View of the mountains opposite the river bank. Spectacular vistas! Rock faces along the banks reflected in the river's surface When the Pinacanauan River is mentioned, it is not the impressive Callao Caves that come to mind nor the daily bat flights at dusk emanating from a cave high up one of the cliffs. Both are attractions in their own right. It is the image of a boy sitting at the front end of the boat, his long bamboo pole used in navigating deeper parts, balanced and resting horizontally on his lap. His frail and dark body contrasting with a massive limestone wall rising from a bend. A calm posture, almost zen like, meditative. A study of contrasts. Then this mental picture moves on to that cliff as my gaze is transfixed to its massiveness. The high rise formation is overwhelming. Its rough but bright surface contrasting with the darker water and blue sky. But the view was fleeting. For a few minutes I was in awe, humbled by its monumentality. As the boat navigated, it came up to a rush of water and within a few more minutes, that wall disappeared as it rounded a bend. That is my memory of Pinacanauan River.

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The Cathedral of Tuguegarao Last January 2010, I was invited by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau to join a media tour of travel writers and bloggers to experience North Luzon. Part of the tour included a visit to 9 churches. Check Langyaw.com for travel related posts during this trip. Tuguegarao Cathedral is imposing in its size, awe inspiring with it’s brick facade and interesting with its many brick bas relief symbols of the Dominican Order. There are roosters, papal tiaras, dogs, the sun and the moon and the marian symbols. In terms of architecture, it is the prime example of the Cagayan style of facade which can be seen in Dupax del Sur, Bambang and Bayombong in Nueva Vizcaya as well as a variation in Tumauini and San Pablo in Isabela. Our Lady of Piat Shrine The Our Lady of Piat Shrine is one of the top pilgrimage areas in Cagayan province and in the country with many devotees venerating the image. It’s not a colonial era church. When this shrine became popular and grew, the old edifice located near it was eventually abandoned and is now in ruin. Notable church antique artifacts including an 18th century bell can be found at the shrine’s museum. Iguig Church is famous for its flying buttresses located at the back. The church of Iguig is unassuming with its already renovated facade that one would hesitate to venture inside and just move on. However, at the back, supporting the rear wall, is an architectural detail that is not so commonly used in other Spanish colonial era churches in the country: flying buttresses. Only a handful of religious edifices sport this like Tumauini in Isabela. Found mostly used in Gothic architecture, its kind of surprising to be used here. Alcala Church Alcala Church is said to be the widest in Cagayan province with its three aisles. Squat and minimally embellished except for decorative columns and blind windows as niches, the style of the facade is reminiscent to the one in Lal-lo. The interior has been greatly renovated with nary a trace of the original. Camalaniugan Church is where the oldest bell in the Far East is located, dated 1595. Camalaniugan Church is famous for one thing: the oldest bell in the Far East is located here. This bell, cast in 1595 is inscribed the Sta. Maria with an almost tubular form unlike those cast in the 18th and 19th centuries. The current structure is new as the one prior to this was burned a few years ago. Behind the current building is the ruins of a much older church which was abandoned when the mighty Cagayan River flooded and eroded portions of the structure. About a hundred meters is a massive and old horno or oven, used to bake the bricks used in constructing many of the brick churches in North Cagayan during the Spanish colonial period. Lallo Church was once the seat of the Diocese of Nueva Segovia Lal-lo Church used to be the seat of the Diocese of Nueva Segovia in the 18th century but was moved to Vigan in Ilocos Sur when the Cagayan River flooded and eroded portions of its plaza fronting the church. This and the edifice in Alcala have the same style of facade. The interior has been renovated. Pamplona Church I’ve been looking forward to see the church of Pamplona but was quite disappointed. It’s facade has already been renovated, with the origina covered with new bricks. However, as one goes to the side, the nave is still original and portions of the rubble stone used as filling can still be seen. Paoay Church, UNESCO World Heritage Site The Parish church of St. Augustine in Paoay, Ilocos Norte is one of four structures inscribed as Baroque Churches of the Philippines under the UNESCO World Heritage List. It’s architecture is no like any other in the Philippines with it’s unique facade and massive buttresses that line the nave’s exterior. It’s a good example of earthquake baroque and, typical of Ilocos churches, the belfry is a few meters from the main structure. Some critics say that it’s architecture is a blending of the oriental and occidental, the east and the west. Masinloc Church The church in Masinloc is one of the few remaining Spanish colonial era churches in Zambales, majority of which were built by the Augustinian Recollects as they were assigned this region right after they arrived in the country in 1606. made from coral stone, it’s a surprise for me as churches made from this material is not so common in Luzon. Several earthquake damaged this edifice, the latest of which struck in 1999 that resulted in a crack at the facade. It has been repaired a few years ago.

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The chef is ready. CLICK TO ENLARGE Imagine, having lunch or early dinner outdoors with your special someone. But not just an ordinary open air venue but one where you’re surrounded by spectacular mountains, crisp and cool air, with a waiter dressed in tux decanting wine while a chef in toque and all, whipping up your dish. An intimate activity sure to make it a memorable day. This in the great Cordilleras of Benguet. Last January 2010, I was invited by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau to join a media tour of travel writers and bloggers to experience North Luzon for seven days starting in Cagayan province all the way to Pampanga to sample the various local cuisines and experience the attractions offered by the various provinces along the route. Wine sir? CLICK TO ENLARGE This is the premise and promise of what the Baguio Conventions and Visitors Bureau (BCVB) is whipping up to bring tourists back to the City of Pines and surrounding areas by introducing adventure packages and other activities. Ambuklao Dam tour, go karting and now, dining al fresco in the great Cordilleras are just some of these attractions. Dining in spectacular natural surroundings is a novel and interesting idea, a unique offering that I’m sure will appeal to a specific group of people. Of course, like the karting I’ve blogged prior to this post, I also have some reservations. The place that we were brought to doesn’t appeal so much or isn’t a romantic place in the beginning. Maybe, it was their way of showing us how it will be but it just doesn’t cut it. It was near a pebbly and rocky river and below the highway. If I would recommend, a high promontory giving the diners spectacular views of valleys, mountain ranges and mist covered pine forests would be great. There are lots of it along the road network in Benguet. Even the highest point in the Philippine road system gives a sweeping vista that’s just arresting. Also, if they will eventually pursue this one, they should have well trained personnel able to handle the special demands of the place and activity. It is not enough to have a good idea but logistically, well stocked from the furnitures and other fixtures, to the food. Be prepared to be in awe as you are surrounded by these beautiful mountains, a perfect background while enjoying one's food and company.

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Ambuklao Dam in Bokod, Benguet is a sight to behold with its thundering flow of water Kayaking is possible in the catch basin of Ambuklao. CLICK TO ENLARGE From a distance, Ambuklao Dam in Bokod, Benguet looks like a mirage. An apparition amidst the ruggedness of this part of the Cordillera. But it’s thunderous waters crashing below the dam’s gates nudges you back to reality. Last January 2010, I was invited by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau to join a media tour of travel writers and bloggers to experience North Luzon for seven days starting in Cagayan province all the way to Pampanga to sample the various local cuisines and experience the attractions offered by the various provinces along the route. The long uphill climb from Baguio to Ambuklao Dam is one of the spectacular routes in Benguet, but probably second only to that of Halsema Highway minus the redolent stench of chicken dung along the road. Pantabangan Dam can be seen along the route. Deep vales and soaring misty mountains just take one’s breath away and at the same time, the crisp cool air perfumed by stands of pine trees makes it one of the most enjoyable and unforgettable routes. Just be careful after the rain as soil is loosened and landslides are commonplace. But then, once you get past these, upon entering the vicinity of Bokod, denuded mountains and silted rivers takes the icing on the cake. That’s why when one get’s a glimpse of Ambuklao Dam, one just has to stop and gaze and contemplate the beautiful monstrosity of such a structure. So alien in its surroundings but provides a respite from all the drab ruggedness. Captivating scenery of the rugged Cordilleras and the dam as seen from the top Looking down below the dam. CLICK TO ENLARGE A gap between the mountains where the mighty Agno River used to flow freely has been plugged to become the Ambuklao Dam commissioned in 1956 and is the Philippines’s first hydroelectric power plant that contributes to the Luzon grid. It irrigates the fields of Pangasinan province in the southwest. Walking through the roadway at the top of the dam is quite an experience. You’re but a small entity amidst the gray structure of cement with its series of spillways down below regurgitating volumes upon volumes of water that comes crashing down, misty with aquaeous sprays. The dam's catchbasin is just scenic The dam’s catchbasin is perhaps a welcome site in Bokod with its emerald still waters providing a sharp contrast against the denuded and parched mountains surrounding it. The wind is not as strong when we were there but is enough to generate clean ripples on the surface. This is also a good reason to indulge in kayaking which is offered here. Multicolored plastics that when on the water, provides a pleasant and colorful scenery. Not adventurous enough? One can just walk up the dam and contemplate the gush of water. The vertical lines formed as it surges down is zen like. Nevermind if it ends in a roiling break and foam and sprays.

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I made it to the cover: San Sebastian Minor Basilica in the June 2010 issue of Bluprint Magazine In the June 2010 issue of Bluprint Magazine, my images of San Sebastian Minor Basilica made it to the cover as well as main feature entitled: Prefab Gothic Revival: Saving the All-Steel San Sebastian Basilica in Manila. The article is written by Tina Paterno, a New York based conservator, who is in the country spearheading, as project head, the restoration of this stunning and historic edifice. The author details the history of San Sebastian, which took a decade to design and execute from 1881 – 1891 under the auspices of the Augustinian Recollects. This was made possible due to one man, Genaro Palacios where a plaque bearing his name is inscribed at the floor near the entrance. However, Tina also focuses on the often unseen problems of this structure. Foremost is the alarming corrosion of the metal structure that is not noticed by visitors and parishioners. As one looks closely, rust has eaten some parts of the steel panels. Warping has afflicted some sections and already, 36 kilos of metal have fallen. Not only that, water has leaked. The beautiful trompe l’oeil at the choirloft, transept dome, pendentives and at the walls near the altar is slowly damaged as the steel panels continue to deteriorate. For Tina, these are just from the outside. She is more concerned of the condition of the unseen steel trusses. This article is thus timely and important in order to raise awareness and galvanize support not only within the parish of San Sebastian but also with heritage advocates and ordinary Filipinos. In the next few months, detailed study and assessment will be conducted to give a real picture of the extent of deterioration and recommend appropriate action. The San Sebastian Minor Basilica in Manila is a national treasure, a Philippine National Historical Landmark since 1973 and is listed in the World Monuments Fund under the Watchlist 2010 of Cultural Heritage at Risk. Bluprint is monthly magazine, a design sourcebook published by the Mega Publishing Group. This month’s issue is on Sacred Spaces and includes other religious architecture found in the country.

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The main altar was located at the center of the church which forms a Greek cross. Archival image from San Agustin Museum. CLICK TO ENLARGE. It would have been a sight as one enters the lost church of Oton. From the main entrance with three gothic style doors, one is greeted with trompe l’oeils at the ceiling’s faux vault, the same features that now decorate the stone vault ceiling of San Agustin Church in Intramuros. Where the four arms of the greek cross floor plan, a Byzantine style adaptation, of the church meet at the center, an impressive free standing and gothic style retablo rises. This retable has four sides with each side having its own altar. It is separated from the nave by a beautiful wrought iron communion rail that ring the altar. Above it, the pendentives, the triangular part where the dome connects with the walls below, are painted with the four evangelists, as is customary and still observed today. As can be seen from the archival image at the left, the pulpit is not the typical one that hangs from the walls. Instead, it is supported from the ground. It is then topped with a gothic inspired torna voz with a spire rising at the center.

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Lingayen's capitol is an impressive piece of colonial architecture which is just a part of a complex of such buildings. Bust of an eagle at the start of the spiral staircase. CLICK TO ENLARGE The beautiful Capitol of Lingayen in Pangasinan, built in 1918 during the American colonial period, is an outstanding piece of neoclassic state architecture that has survived the ravages of World War II. Last January 2010, I was invited by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau to join a media tour of travel writers and bloggers to experience North Luzon for seven days starting in Cagayan province all the way to Pampanga to sample the various local cuisines and experience the attractions offered by the various provinces along the route. This building is actually part of a complex of beautiful American colonial era government structures whose architectural style is also popular in other parts of the country especially in Manila. It was built near the historic and picturesque Lingayen beach where Gen. Douglas McArthur landed. As one drives up to this complex, its beautiful, tree lined boulevard greets the visitor. At the far end, is the impressive capitol structure, now painted in white and yellow. For heritage enthusiasts, this stately edifice just awes and with the dramatic lighting during evenings, one can just sit at the distance and enjoy the view. The spiral staircase at the far end is a point of interest to the visitor who enters the building. Proper restoration attempts were done a few years ago during the incumbency of Gov. Agbayani with Architect Jojo Mata with the main objective of bringing back its old splendor but when Gov. Espino held office, they implemented their own version of restoration that departed from the original plan. According to Ivan Henares, the interior has been changed to such an extent that it is totally different from the original. Gone are the wrought iron grilles that used to separate the offices. Wooden panels have been added and much, much more that will make a staunch heritage advocate like Ivan weep. Sayang!

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Oton Church is in the form of a Greek cross with four equal arms. It is mainly of the Gothic Order with other architectural styles blended. Image showing one of the side entrance. Archival image courtesy of San Agustin Museum. The lost church of Oton in Iloilo was the only one of its kind in the Philippines in form and structure. It’s architecture is a combination of different architectural styles: gothic, classical and romanesque, a trait that is very much common in most Spanish colonial period churches in the country. It was in the form of a Greek cross, a byzantine floor plan with all four arms of equal length radiating from the center. The structure has two levels. The first having semicircular windows running the length of its sides and each end of the arm having portals: three main doors at the main entrance and one each at the other arms. The second level has circular windows alternated with classical columns at each side and three openings with lancet arches top the portals. The four entrances are crowned with a triangular pediment in the form of a gothic arch pierced with a rose window and flanked with two spires. Other than the three portals, the main entrance is also distinguished with bigger spires. A massive central dome has a lantern serving as a finial and below it are clerestory windows to admit light. This blending of different architectural styles cohered in some way to become one of the unique structures in the country ever built. Unfortunately, it never survived to this day. -------------

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Binungey is glutinous rice with coco extract steamed in bamboo A curious delicacy, binungey in bamboo. CLICK TO ENLARGE Binungey or binongey is a rice cake delicacy in Pangasinan which is malagkit (sticky rice) soaked in coconut extract and steamed in bamboo over fire. It comes from the Pangalatok word nungey, meaning, cooked in bamboo. A unique take that got my interest. Last January 2010, I was invited by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau to join a media tour of travel writers and bloggers to experience North Luzon for seven days starting in Cagayan province all the way to Pampanga to sample the various local cuisines and experience the attractions offered by the various provinces along the route. Binungey was served for lunch during our Hundred Islands trip and I got curious with it. At first glance, it’s quite unusual that several nodes of bamboo were lined on the table and peering inside, grated coconut was on top of something. When it was cut in half, there was cooked glutinous rice, lightly salted and smelled with the hint of gata (coconut milk). Split, the bamboo contains well cooked binungey. CLICK TO ENLARGE This rice delicacy is found in Alaminos, especially in Barangay San Jose, where the best ones are said to be made. It is also sold as a snack in Bolinao and Anda even has its Binongey Festival. Traditionally, it was served only on special occasions, especially during Christmas, due to the long hours of preparing and cooking this rice cake. Malagkit is washed and soaked either in water for two hours. Once ready, bamboo tubes, preferrably, a year old, is filled 3/4. Coconut extract is then poured and covers over half an inch of the malagkit. Grated/desiccated coconut from the extraction is then topped to prevent ash and dirt from reaching the rice mixture. Cooking is a bit tedious and critical. If the fire is too strong, it will burn the bamboo. If it’s too low, the rice mixture might be uncooked. To the binungey cook, experienced has already taught him how strong the fire is. Steaming it usually takes 2-3 hours. Locals usually pair the bland binungey with sweet mango or soak it in local hot chocolate. Still, others dip it in sugar. Being a Cebuano, I can’t help but compare it with our own version of what we call the puto: unground glutinous rice slightly sweetened and prepared almost the same way except that it is not placed in bamboo, without the grated coconut and with the addition of ginger. Once cooked, it is then wrapped in strips of banana leaves. It is best eaten in the morning and eaten exactly with the same pairings.

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A fisherman sighted on our way to one of the many islands dotting the sea off Alaminos. Ascending the steep but well marked trail up the peak in Governor's Island. CLICK TO ENLARGE The Hundred Islands off Alaminos in Pangasinan is one of the Philippine’s major and famous natural attractions that is visited by hundreds of thousands of tourists each year. Last January 2010, I was invited by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau to join a media tour of travel writers and bloggers to experience North Luzon for seven days starting in Cagayan province all the way to Pampanga to sample the various local cuisines and experience the attractions offered by the various provinces along the route. Ever since I was in grade school, I’ve already known the Hundred Islands in Pangasinan. Perhaps, every Filipino school child knows what this natural attraction and where it is located but for those who are not from that region, chances are slim of ever reaching this northwestern destination. Located 250 kilometers from Manila, the Hundred Islands National Park, declared in 1940 by Pres. Manuel Quezon, is a sprinkling of 123 islets in a beautiful tropical sea with white sand beaches, caves, and habitat to various species of birds and fruit bats. It is 5 hours by bus from Manila (4 if you have your own car) and three hours from Baguio City with the main jump off point at Lucap Wharf where rows upon rows of motorized bancas are available for hiring. The best view of the Hundred Islands atop the peak in Governor's Island Rows of motorized bancas at the main jump off point at Lucap Wharf. CLICK TO ENLARGE The scenery is stunning! Even in transit from Lucap Wharf, fishermen on their daily grind ply the route. Some casting their nets or are going to their destination aboard their colorful boats. In the shallows, some are wading, probably looking for seafood in these parts. Exposed rocky outcrops provide a surreal landscape with birds flying low or just resting. In the distance, the silhouette of the famed islands are slowly coming into view. Blue waters give way to emerald as we came nearer and nearer until the familiar vegetation covered islets finally take shape. Some are just craggy rock outcrops jutting from the water while others are large. Huge fruit bats, flying foxes, as they are called, in one of the islands One perfect islet to start is Governor’s Island. It’s one of the larger ones, with 24 hour electricity courtesy of a power generator. It also has a guest house built and used in one of the local Big Brother reality show a few years ago that can now be rented. A steep climb at the hill rewards one the best view of the islands. This was also the setting of several versions of a local mermaid movie, Dyesebel, done by various directors. The Hundred Islands National Park is indeed one local natural attraction that one should visit. There are 123 islets to chose from with many still unexplored. There are several caves to visit, frolic in white sand beaches, bird and bat watch, or observe giant clams, taklobo, being raised in protected beds. It’s one destination that’s unforgettable.

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The stunning church of Oton, Iloilo was one of a kind in the Philippines but was destroyed not by war but by an earthquake. Archival image from the San Agustin Museum. It would have been one of the country’s spectacular churches, if not the most beautiful were it not for a natural cataclysm that razed it to the ground. Oton’s once majestic church, in the form of a Greek cross, was unique as it was the only one with such a plan and architecture blending Byzantine with Gothic and classical elements. The town of Oton was established by the Augustinians in 1572 after Cebu and Manila and was the center of their administration in Iloilo. In fact, the former name of the province is a namesake of the town. It’s name is the hispanized version of ogtong, meaning reef or tidal flat which is a main feature of the area and was then the encomienda of Don Miguel de Loarca. The history of church building is a bit hazy but its first prior, Fray Martin de Rada was said to have built a church of good quality which was eventually destroyed during a Dutch attack in 1614. It was only in the 19th century that we get to know of a church being constructed during the curacy of Fray Demetrio Cobos who was parish priest from 1844-1854 that the first stones were laid. Fray Diego de Hoz continued the project when Fray Cobos died in 1854. Fray Joaquin Fernandez, named in charge of construction in 1883 finished the edifice. The grand church was consecrated and blessed in 1892 by Fray Nicolas Gallo. The edifice was spared during World War II but an earthquake on 5 January, 1948 destroyed it. It has never been rebuilt and only two bells, dated 1817 and 1887, and a portion of the wall, now built with a grotto, remain of the structure.

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Halohalo in Banaue, Sagada and perhaps the rest of the Cordillera region is interesting with macaroni and fresh fruits included Lateral view showing the ingredients of Banaue's halohalo. CLICK TO ENLARGE Halohalo, that Pinoy iced dessert popular during the hot summer months take on an interesting form in the highlands of the Cordilleras, even when it’s cold. The clincher? Interesting ingredients used that set it apart from the rest of the concoction in the lowlands. A casual walk in the streets of Banaue and Sagada proved to be amusing as I just found out that the halohalo stalls in these areas, and perhaps in most of the Cordillera region, uses rather not so familiar ingredients. Where else can you find fresh fruit in lieu of fruit preserves in syrup popular “down there?” But what really piqued my interest was the inclusion of elbow macaroni. Unusual? Yes! According to an account told to me by a woman in Sagada, locals used to prepare macaroni and fruit salad and when the halohalo was introduced, they simply added ice and other ingredients to it drizzled with Liberty evaporada (evaporated milk). A small plastic cup costs P20 ($0.40) in Banaue and P25 in Sagada with almost similar ingredients but the fresh fruit may vary. A halohalo vendor in Sagada with her ingredients In Banaue, the ingredients include boiled camote (sweet potato), coconut strips, cooked saba banana in syrup, crushed peanuts, gulaman (jelly), sago and boiled, unsweetened ube (purple yam). In Sagada: pinipig (rice crispies), melon strips, boiled and slightly sweetened ube, apple, avocado, boiled camote, banana, and red and green gulaman. Brown sugar is used. Here, I really liked the crush of the apple and the textures of the different ingredients makes this a sating snack. By the way, be informed that these vendors, unless you destroy the plastic cups, recycle these. Check other halohalo versions in this post.

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The steel columns and fan vault of the beautiful Minor Basilica of San Sebastian I’ve always been fascinated with the all-steel structure of the San Sebastian Minor Basilica in Quiapo, Manila and when the opportunity came to document it inside and out, I grabbed it. San Sebastian is a gem, a unique edifice that is said to be the only all-steel church in Asia. The soaring spires seem to reach out to the heavens as this neo gothic structure is just so impossible to miss. Inside, the fan vaulting is mesmerizing. For around two weeks last April, I’ve documented this basilica, photographing the myriad and interesting details, the trompe l’oeil, the stunning stained glass and many more. I also got alarmed with the deterioration and rust that is slowly creeping and probably affecting its steel material. Those two weeks are still not enough. I still have to take images of the deterioration, the details of the exterior as well as the tombstones found inside. Once these are finished, I then need to check the documentation, articles and books published on this structure. Archival images aren’t hard to find though. Once all these are finished, I can then start posting about this magnificent church. Do stay tuned in the coming months as Simbahan.net brings you one of the Philippine’s magnificent churches. Check out my posts in estancabigas.com where I have some sample images.

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A boy surfer doing his thing at San Juan, La Union Surfing in La Union is ideal. It’s the closest one to Metro Manila, ample public transport system, good roads and the waves cater to all levels from beginners to well seasoned pros. It even has an inviting night life. Last January 2010, I was invited by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau to join a media tour of travel writers and bloggers to experience North Luzon for seven days starting in Cagayan province all the way to Pampanga to sample the various local cuisines and experience the attractions offered by the various provinces along the route. When one speaks of surfing, the mention of San Juan in La Union is never far behind, specifically the long stretch of sand that is Urbiztondo Beach. This municipality has been a popular venue for riding the waves ever since the Japanese Aki Naga started the surfing trend in 1981. During that time, he taught the locals how to surf and to this day, these locals have been reaping awards and accolades and Urbiztondo Beach has become the surfing mecca of La Union, the surrounding provinces and of Metro Manila. San Juan's best surfers The surf here is said to be ideal. Not only is this place blessed with two surfing seasons, July – October and November – March, quite a rarity in the country, the waves here are said to be standard, which is good, and is of consistent quality. It’s also suited for beginners as swell size starts at less than one meter. The coast here also has a sandy bottom and on a good day, wave length is at 50 -150m. The popular Luke Landrigan giving the basics of surfing to would be surfers. I'm not sure if the girls are learning or distracted with the gentleman. For newbies or those who want to start surfing, there are surfing clinics available offered by the various resorts. In one, the popular multi awarded icon, Luke Landrigan actually gives out instructions. An hour’s demo is enough and one can spend a few hours practicing. The best time to hit the waves is early in the morning until 10 AM when the sun just gets too hot and later in the afternoon starting at around 2 PM. Surfing season in La Union can get the beach crowded but if you’re one who enjoys the nightlife, that would be a welcome as there are nightly events during the La Union Surfing Break. A local surfer riding the waves You stand, you fall and stand back again. San Juan is quite accessible. It’s just 5 – 6.5 hours by private vehicle or bus, respectively, from Metro Manila where several bus companies pass en route to Ilocos. It’s two hours from Baguio City and 30 minutes from San Fernando, the capital of the province. When in Urbiztondo Beach, San Juan Surf Resort (+63 72 720 0340, http://www.sanjuansurfresort.com.ph, landrigan@sflu.com) is the best place to learn surfing when you’re just starting as Luke Landrigan and his team are there to assist you. The resort also offers accommodations.

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